Eclectic, androginous, off-the-rack – these are the labels of the 2013/2014 autumn-winter collections – if labels are the way to go about it, since this end-of-year trends are similar to a rollercoaster ride from post-punk to girl-boy ambiguity and outfits with a sports suit allure, swirling through past and present. Going from innovation to the revisiting of former design classics, fall/winter garments are an array of intertwined patterns, from thin stripes to polka dots, in a classy, but never dull, chromatic scale. Vibrance in colors is reinstated by accesories: shoes and bags come in fizzy, cocktail nuances, a legacy of summer trends, or refined metallic shades, to brighten up the spectrum of cold season attire.
Miu Miu brings out a polished, fairytale creature, a posh, elegant witch-like lady, that boldly, magically combines stripy stalkings and polka dots bags.
It's the cold season, so long, zipped up, turtle necks hide the skin, giving a rough, military, dignified and yet arousing look. But since this is a study in contrasts, you have to accept the revealing of shoulders as one of the high spots of the season to come: wheteher it's in furry tops, bandeaus designed by JW Anderson, Marni, Vera Wang, Maison Martin Margiela, Christian Dior and Stella McCartney or the shoulderless trenchcoats of Miuccia Prada,skin is again in, even if heat is out.
Missoni is just one more example of the way fall/winter clothes can be just as flowing and exposing as the ones from the previous season: ponchoes, shawls, pashminas add an oriental, bohemian touch, together with loose dresses that seem to cling to the body only through belts fastened around the waist. There's an edge to the whole relaxed look, a direct effect of neon colors and the crisp, sport cuts of pants.
The same bold shades, from cobalt blue to electric orange, together with the futuristic twist of uptown, sport suit resembling outfits is the guideline of Michael Kors' design for the upcoming season.
One of the most notable examples of Brit post-punk revisited and Scottish patterns are Rossella Jiardini's creations: red and black reclaim their status as two of Moschino's trademark colors in tartan skirts and blazers, worn, this time as well, with reinterpreted sports items, such as tall, riding hats, adorned by lavish golden accessories, like opulent earrings and gaudy monograms.
True fashion statements are made by Formichetti's bold creations for Mugler that come into shape through rethinking swimwear: dresses in pale hues (lavender, mauve and peach) that modify the line of the body, hips and shoulders with petal-style folds and cuts that proclaim self-assuredness and audacity as the main attributes of the woman that dares to put them on.
The sporty vibe is the key for men's wear, as well. It is again Mugler to bring forth the tight, sci-fi suit, with geometric motifes that give an uncanny look to its wearers. For male clothing, too, graphic influences reign supreme, especially reinterpretations of tartan, one of the unofficial stars of the autumn/winter 2013-2014 collections. Suits, blazers and ankle length trousers are not excluded, but there is always an unconventional twist to them, an eye-catcher, be it a shocking color or huge fur collars.